The King's Crown and the Gentleman's Wardrobe

What can be common between a King’s crown and a gentleman’s wardrobe?
These two are worlds apart with seemingly nothing in common.
The crown for the king is a representation of regal office, power and authority. No monarch is complete without his crown, which is of immense importance in terms of value and significance.


For the gentleman, his wardrobe fulfils the function of a crown. He derives his powerful appearance, authority and confidence from his wardrobe.A good wardrobe, with well-fitting and quality clothes, represents his outer appearance and brings a distinct sophisticated aura to the owner. There is a sense of confidence and assurance when the person knows he is well dressed. The wardrobe equips the gentleman externally to take up the highest positions in life by presenting a faultless exterior.

Just as a crown has jewels in the centre, the jewels of the wardrobe are the bespoke suits. Among the ready to wear and made to measure suits, this stands apart and is actually beyond comparison.

The importance of a bespoke suit is that it is essential for all formal occasions, be it professional or social. The mental image of a well-dressed person is of one wearing such a suit. In corporate circles a high level of competency is required at all times. So it is imperative that the individual draws on all his innate capabilities when entering his work place. Knowing that he is faultlessly clad adds to his confidence levels and self-esteem.
Similarly for social situations such as weddings, office dinners and other formal gatherings, again a bespoke suit is desired. In such a case, informal clothing is a strict no-no.

The speciality of bespoke suits is that they are custom made for the individual, developed from scratch based on actual measurements and designed to fit like a second skin. The greater advantage is that the individual has the freedom to create the suit in the way which appeals to his individual taste.
However, before the individual can go in for ordering the suit, he has to be clear about the purpose and season. Obviously, a suit which will be worn more in summer will have a different material from those that are to be worn in winter months. Linen, cotton, seersucker, khaki and other lighter materials are preferred for the former and woollen and other heavier materialsfor the latter.
What, specifically, are the areas where personal choice can be exercised?
The first is the cut which can be American, Savile Row or Italian according to personal preferences.
The individual has to decide whether he wants a two piece or three piece suit. A three piece has an additional vest, but it is optional and the suit can be worn without it. The vest may be worn where greater formality is required.

A choice has to be made between single breast and double breast. The former has a single row of buttons while the latter has two rows. Each suit design has its own importance and place.
Many jackets have buttons on the sleeves. In readymade suits these are decorative, but in bespoke suits they are functional which gives greater flexibility in rolling up the sleeve and of course, increased comfort. The number of buttons is optional.
The types of buttonholes, bar-tacked, rounded-end or keyhole, are another area of preference. This is one place where imperfection is a sign of hand stitching and thus is considered a plus point.

The individual has a lot of freedom in the number and design of pockets. Some of the types are bellows, patched, flap, slanted and piped. Inner pockets can also be put in as required. Suitable pockets for tickets, keys, change,odds and ends and even an iPad can be created as desired by the customer. For the iPad, the tailor will customize the pocket size for a comfortable fit.
Shoulder padding is another option. Padded shoulders give a broad appearance and the absence of padding gives a more natural transition from shoulder to arm.
Suit lapels are mainly of three types. This is the part immediately below the collar that is folded back on either side. The choices are between notched, peaked and shawl.
The slits at the back of the jacket are the vents which allow easy mobility and present a tailored fit. The options here are a center vent, which is traditional, double vent which is more modern or no vent at all.
Regarding the trousers, the individual has the choice of pant break, which refers to how much the bottom of the trouser meets the shoe. For the adventurous, no break means that the trouser will just meet the tops of the shoes. A quarter break will graze over the tops of the shoes. A medium break is the traditional design and allows a little bit of a fold over and a full break, as the term implies, offers one full fold over the shoes.
The individual should be clear in his mind about his preferences are. The next step is to approach the tailor for his perfect bespoke suit which will be the jewel in his wardrobe.
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Also Check Reference Article from Fashionbeans at following link.

Fashion Bean Article on Men's Designer Suit

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Rahul Goel
Posted: Tue 11/13/2018 09:43 AM
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