Custom Shirts

Shirts

Cut to your pattern. Your collar, your cuff.

Custom Shirts

The shirt is where fit shows first.

A shirt sits closer to you than anything else you wear, so it is where a pattern cut for your body matters most. Every shirt we make starts from your own measurements, with the collar, cuff, buttons and monogram you choose.

Custom Dress Shirts

Built to your fit, in every fabric.

A custom shirt is the easiest way to feel the difference of true fit. Whether you need an everyday shirt that works under a sport coat, a casual linen for warm weather, or a black-tie shirt with French cuffs ready for cufflinks, every shirt is built to your exact measurements, not a generalized size. We take more than two dozen measurements, and we work with you on the details that matter: collar style and height, cuff style, placket, monogram, button choice, and shirttail length.

Our shirting library includes Italian and Swiss cottons, linens for warm weather, and brushed flannels and oxford weaves for cooler months. Mills represented include Albini, Thomas Mason, and Monti. Once measured, your shirts are produced by our partners in Hong Kong and shipped to our McLean store for a fitting. After the first try-on, fit notes carry forward for every shirt you order with us.

Included in every shirt

Your fit, your collar, your cuff. One price.

From $215 a shirt, and $275 for a tuxedo shirt. The cloth sets the price. Collar, cuff, buttons and monogram are your choice, at no extra charge.

  • Four-shirt minimum. Ordering a suit? There is no minimum.
  • Order six shirts and the seventh is included.
  • On a first order we make one shirt, fit it, and then make the rest to the corrected pattern.
24+Measurements

A pattern cut for your shoulders, posture and arm length. Not a stock size adjusted to fit.

17Collar styles

Eight point lengths from 2 1/2 to 4 inches and seven band heights, set to your neck and your tie knot.

24Cuff styles

From a one button barrel cuff to a mitred French cuff for links.

66Shirt buttons

Resin, mother of pearl shell or corozo nut, in every color from white to navy. Your choice is included.

20+Monogram positions

On the cuff, the chest, the collar band or hidden inside. Always included.

Collars

Six of the seventeen. Most clients wear the first.

Semi spreadA moderate spread. Works with a tie or open, and suits most faces.Our house collar. 95% of the shirts we make.
CutawayA wider spread with the points angled back. Dressier, and made for a fuller tie knot.
Classic pointA narrower opening with longer points. Traditional, best with a small knot.
Button downThe points button to the shirt. The most casual, and good without a tie.
TabA tab fastens under the knot and lifts the tie. Worn only with a tie.
Wing tipA standing collar with small folded tips. For a bow tie at black tie.
Cuffs

Six of the twenty-four. Most clients wear a one button or a French cuff.

One buttonThe everyday barrel cuff. Clean and simple.Our most made cuff.
Two buttonA taller barrel cuff. A little more formal.
RoundedA one button cuff with a curved corner. Softer and classic.
FrenchFolds back and fastens with cufflinks. The dress cuff.Our second most made.
Mitred FrenchA French cuff with angled corners. Sharper, still worn with links.
NeapolitanYou may recognize it from Dr. No. The turned back cuff James Bond made famous in the 1960s. Buttons, no links.
French cuff with cufflinks on a custom formal shirt
The French cuffFolded back and closed with links. Shown here in marcella for black tie.
Monogram embroidered on the cuff of a custom shirt
The monogramYour name or initials, in the thread color and position you choose. Always included.
Where the quality shows

A collar that stands up under a jacket.

The interlining is the layer inside a collar and cuff that you never see. In most shirts, including expensive ones, it is too thin. The collar goes soft, looks flimsy and collapses under a jacket. Ours is firm, in the collar and in the cuff, so both hold their shape all day. If you prefer a softer collar, we make that too.

  • A handmade make, from $325. Hand-sewn buttonholes, placket, side gussets, yoke and armholes, finished with pick stitching.
  • Buttons on a shank. Each button stands off the cloth on a wound stem, so it fastens cleanly and stays on.
  • A split yoke. Cut in two pieces across the shoulders, so the shirt follows the way you actually stand.
  • Collar stays your way. Removable or sewn in, with the tie space set to the knot you wear.
  • Black tie fronts. Pleated or plain, fly front or made for studs.

Also yours to choose: placket, pocket, back pleats, hem shape, sleeve vent, and a contrast collar or cuff.

By appointment

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Our reputation is based on our uncompromising dedication to craftsmanship and personal service

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