1. Schedule a fitting
What’s the difference between looking “good” in your new clothes and looking “amazing”? A proper fit. As one of our customers said after being tailor fit for a shirt for the first time in his life: “I can’t believe how incredible the shirt feels, I never want to take it off.” As great as it feels, it looks even better, and everyone will notice. Visit an experienced tailor to have your best clothes fit to your specifications. Every man deserves a custom-tailored suit.
2. The basics of the necktie
If your tie dips below your belt line, it’s too long; if it wanders too close to your navel, it may be too short. Finally, stick with the classic Windsor knot, but add a dimple — the hollow beneath your knot.
3. What you’ll need to properly shine your shoes
You’ll need the following items: (1) a boot brush, (2) black shoe polish, (3) a polishing cloth, and (4) a tooth brush. You can find all of these items at most department stores. The helpful website Instructables has a tutorial on how to do a brush shine.
4. Try glasses before you buy
What are some trends in eyewear for the coming year? Dark-rimmed glasses are still in and the larger the better. For those of you who wear specs on a daily basis, have a black and a brown pair to complement your basic wardrobe options. Want to run your new look past your friends? The popular website Warby Parker has many stylish frames and will ship you five pairs for a week to see how you like the frames before ordering.
5. How to select and wear a pocket square
The pocket square is like a tiny little billboard sticking out from your pocket on your chest. What are you saying on your tiny little billboard? You can make a statement with your pocket square and you should always make sure to follow basic guidelines when choosing a square for your pocket:
- Don’t match the pocket square exactly with your tie and or short. Instead complement the colors, patterns, and fabrics of your shirt and tie.
- There are three ways to fold your pocket square: straight, one fold, and puff. There’s no rule on when to wear which fold, but the puff is the least formal and easiest to pull off. Don’t puff it or fold it if you have an elegant pattern on your square that you want to show off.
6. Own an umbrella
A man should always have an umbrella close at hand if needed. Not only is it practical, it can add some style, and even more importantly, you can use it to keep someone else dry (like that redhead you’ve had your eye on).
7. Dress down your suit occasionally
Wearing a suit never goes out of style, not ever. But dressing it down a bit will still be popular in 2015. How do you dress down your suit? Ditch the tie and wear your shirt unbuttoned for a casual look. Don’t toss your neckties --- you’ll still want to wear one on formal occasions.
8. Cover the basics
For the timeless looks that will go with anything and work for any occasion, make sure your closet has these items:
- A charcoal or gray cotton suit
- A solid black tie
- Simple silver cuff links
- Black and/or brown dress shoes that can work with your suit or in casual situations.
With these basic items in place you have the foundation for a versatile wardrobe.
9. Modern vs. vintage: the suit jacket
Do not mix and match style: either stick with a modern theme or be mistaken as a Mad Men extra. Modern suits feature thinner lapels and double vents in the suit jacket, whereas vintage pieces are wider and more blocked.
10. Choose the jewelry for you
These are general guidelines, but in most cases they’ll be the way you want to go. Cool skin tones should select metals such as silver, platinum, and white gold. Gold, pewter, and copper are more suitable for warm skin tones.
11. Clean your sneakers
Sneakers are comfortable and they’re not going anywhere --- they are always a nice option with jeans or casual slacks, chinos, etc. For your fashion sneakers make sure you keep them clean and presentable. Leave the stains and black smudges for your running shoes and court shoes, but your nice sneakers should look sharp. Here’s a great guide for keeping your sneakers looking new.
12. Don’t match your tie and shirt
One of these things cannot be like the other: your tie and shirt must be complimentary without exactly matching. If your shirt is a print, choose a solid-color tie. In addition, try adding a texture by selecting a darker color or different fabric from your suit and shirt --- a strong tie can end up doing the work for you.
13. How to know if your suit pants fit properly
Create a long, clean-cut look with flat-iron pants in a slim cut. The hemline should just clip the top of your shoes without bunching up. Cuffs work better with heavier material, such as corduroys or flannel. If you do choose to cuff your pant legs, they should be at least an inch and a quarter deep. To ensure a perfect fit, take your shoes with you to the tailor when having them hemmed.
14. Avoid baggy clothes
Baggy clothes in general are a no-no unless you’re heading off to perform a task that requires a lot of movement or you’re just looking to lounge on the couch to watch 14 hours of Mad Men. But an important note to shorter fellas: avoid baggy clothes, it makes you look shorter. Get pants that fit well and taper properly.
15. Dress like a king with corduroy
Too many men ignore corduroy for their wardrobe. Don’t do that. Corduroy pants and jackets are warm, stylish, and add great depth and character to an ensemble. Choose a wider corduroy for your jacket and a denser corduroy with more “wales” (striped sets of fabric) for pants. Make sure to have a brown pair of corduroy slacks, which can be dressed up with a shirt and sweater, or also paired with a denim shirt. A corduroy jacket is not only stylish it’s a sensible choice for the cooler fall and cold winter months.
16. Three shirts every man must have
Three shirts every man should have: (1) a tailored white shirt, (2) a tailored blue pinstripe shirt, and (3) a tailored patterned or print dress shirt that can add a pop of style and color to your neutral suit. With these three items in your closet you’re capable of dressing well for any occasion.
17. Match your shoes and belt when wearing a suit
Your belt and shoes should always match in color to bring together your suit. Otherwise, you’ll be cut off at the waist and feet. For charcoal and gray suits, stick with a thin black belt and shoes. Your shoes should not be scuffed or look like they’ve been worn for years—even if they have. Bonus points if the color of your belt buckle matches your watch and cufflinks.
18. How to buy jeans that can be cuffed
The raw denim jean is here to stay, my friend. What’s “raw denim?” It’s the darker blue jeans that were made popular by James Dean and Steve McQueen. The proper way to fit yourself for raw denim jeans is to get a pair a few inches longer than your inseam. Why? Several reasons: (1) to reveal the stitching on the inside of the jeans, (2) to utilize the contrasting color of the flip side of the denim, (3) so you can show off your socks and shoes, (4) to give your look a little more depth and layering.
19. Flip your collar up
There are three excellent reasons to flip the collar of your coat up:
- To keep your neck warm.
- To allow you to wrap a scarf around your neck to achieve a layered look.
- To slim your neck. If you have a thicker neck and/or double chin, flip your jacket collar up, it’ll slim your neck and face.
20. Use a scarf to slim down
Speaking of scarves, drape one down your neck and allow it to flow down your chest and torso to slim a larger frame.
21. Take opportunities to add color
We are creatures of habit. We like to do the same things, go to the same places, and wear the same clothes. Often we find “our color” and end up filling our closet with it. But man cannot live on favorite color alone. When you’re coordinating your outfit, take the opportunity to add splashes of color. Here’s where you can sneak it in:
- Watch and other jewelry
- Pocket square
- Tee shirt layered under your primary shirt or jacket
- Shoelaces (replace the boring black or brown laces with something bright)
22. Warm up with a collared cardigan
Did you know that the cardigan was popularized by James Brudenell (1797-1868), the 7th Earl of Cardigan, a British Army Major General who was also famous for leading the Charge of the Light Brigade during the Crimean War? It doesn’t seem fair to be famous for two cool things. Anyway, the cardigan is in for 2015 and it’s a piece of clothing that can really enhance your wardrobe. Wear it to work as casual attire, layer it over a shirt and tie, or wear it with jeans. It’s multi-faceted, just like the 7th Earl of Cardigan.
23. Items every man needs in his wardrobe
This is not an exhaustive list, but it’s a great start.
- Gray suit
- Brown loafers
- Denim shirt
- Corduroy jacket
- Derby hat
- Chinos or khakis
24. How to lace your shoes quickly
Why waste precious seconds lacing your shoes? This helpful video shows you how to speed-tie your shoes. This technique works especially well with sneakers and thicker shoe laces.
25. How to know if your suit jacket fits properly
A proper-fitting suit jacket should fit just below the zipper and seat of your dress pants, while the arm-seams line up with your shoulders. There shouldn’t be any collar gap between your jacket lapels and the collar of your dress shirt. Swap the casual single-button front for a business-ready double-button (the top button should be at your navel). To check the fit, make sure you can slide your hand between your jacket and dress shirt easily without unbuttoning. Finally, the suit sleeves should show roughly a half-inch of your shirt cuff.
26. Selecting a watch that will work for any occasion
Keep it simple --- classic design never goes out of style. Choose a black leather wristband with either a gold or silver watch face, it’ll go with anything. Select a medium-sized watch, nothing too big or too small. Shun a watch that has lots of frills and gadgets (you can choose such a watch as your second or third option but not as your “go-to”), the gadgets are just wasted most of the time. Less is more.
27. How to tie a Windsor knot
The Windsor knot is the most common method of necktie fashion. Follow the directions below and make sure to select a tie that’s about four inches longer than a conventional tie if wish to use this knot.
And if you want to be more confused, this technique is also known as the Full Windsor, Half Windsor, or the Double Windsor. You’re welcome.
28. When to wear a tie clip
Too often we see men wearing a tie clip when they don’t need it or wearing the clip incorrectly. Follow these basic rules:
- Wear a tie clip with a shirt to keep your tie down and to add some depth to your look. Do not wear a tie clip if you’re wearing a vest or waist coat, it’s unnecessary --- your tie will stay in place without the clip.
- Don’t wear your clip on an angle. A tie clip is meant to be worn straight across.
- A thick clip is nice with a wide tie, a thin clip goes nicely with a thin tie.
- The clip shouldn’t be too high or too low. Position it half way between your neck and your bellybutton.
29. Taking care of linen clothing items
With high quality linen items, you'll want to use the following steps to prevent shrinkage and damage.
- Roll linen whenever possible. Don't fold unless you have to. (Here’s a quick tutorial on how to roll your clothing.)
- Linen will permanently crease if folded – but resist the urge to iron it. Instead, if you’re forced to fold your linen items, re-fold them frequently and change up your folding pattern each time.
30. How to buy a belt
- Select a belt that is 2 to 3 sizes larger than your pant waist size based on even number sizing. For example, if you are a 32 waist, buy a size 36 belt. If you are an odd size like 37, go up to the next even number and add 2-3 sizes (42-44).
- Be advised that most belts are measured to their third hole. For example, a 40” belt is 40 inches to the third hole.
- The belt should be large enough to fill the loops but not overfill them. If you struggle to slide the belt through the loop on your jeans, the belt is too wide.
31. How to grow a full beard
Whiskers are popular (Hello ladies!) and practical (keep your cheeks warm). Here’s how you can grow a full, healthy beard: (1) Stop shaving (2) Shave your neckline as stubble grows (3) As hair grows comb your beard down to relieve yourself of tangles (4) Comb your beard up to fluff and style (5) When your full beard fills in, treat the hair with a beard wash. Here's a more comprehensive guide for proper beard care.
32. The cap is stylish again
Men have been wearing hats for a long, long time for many reasons. The traditional baseball cap is still relatively young (only been around for a little over a century). You probably have a few in your closet and maybe they have your favorite team’s logo adorned on them. But you may have noticed that more and more men are donning a cap without a prominent logo or without a logo at all. The age of the “stylish cap” is upon us. Caps with smaller brand logos (think Kangol or Polo) or caps without a brand at all are in. In 2015, it’s about the color, texture, and the style of your hat.
33. Know the signals you send with color
The eye and the brain work closely together to perceive various emotions when they see certain colors.
White = innocence, purity
Black = power, elegance, mystery
Purple = regal and rich
Blue = honest and trustworthy
Red = passion and action, power
Yellow = energy, intellect, happiness
Green = safety and security, also money (dark green)
Orange = joy, enthusiasm
34. Choosing a sock length
There are three lengths of dress sock: (1) Over-the-calf, (2) Mid-calf, and (3) Quarter-length or “ankle socks”.
- Choose over-the-calf-socks for the most traditional of occasions and to avoid bunching.
- Mid-calf is very popular and appropriate for less formal, casual, and work attire.
- Don’t wear quarter-length socks with pants that may reveal your ankles. Skin and sock should not be showing. If you are wearing a loafer in the spring or summer and ant the “no-sock” look while still getting the comfort of a sock, go with a anklet sock that rests beneath the heel line of your shoes.
35. How to iron a shirt the correct way
- Iron the collar first, it’s the most visible part of your shirt and on occasion you may only need to iron this part (when layering under a sweater and jacket for example). First iron the underside of the collar before proceeding to the outside. Make sure you moisten the collar with the iron before beginning.
- Iron the cuff, making sure to unbutton the cuff first and laying it flat.
- Iron the front of the shirt beginning with the button side. Lay the shirt flat and start around the button before moving in a vertical path along the shirt toward the collar. Repeat on the opposite side of the shirt.
- Lay the shirt flat and iron the back of the shirt. Start at the top and move down.
- Lastly, iron the sleeves, which for many people is the most difficult part to iron. Take the sleeves by their seam and lay the entire sleeve on the ironing board. Iron from the top of the sleeve to the bottom, being careful to lay the rest of the shirt over the board carefully to avoid wrinkles. Use a sleeve board to add a crease to the sleeves, otherwise iron flat for no crease.
36. Go bold twice
Wearing burnt orange pants? How about a yellow scarf or even a red tie or sweater? Try a bold blue checked shirt with your loud green shoes. Don’t be afraid to try more than one bold color at a time. At first, before you get good at it, seek other opinions prior to stepping out the front door.
37. How to care for silk clothing items
An important fabric that needs a bit of extra care is silk. The quality of it matters the most.
- Don't fold silk. Any creases from folding will become permanent if you allow them to set.
- Hang silk items on wooden hangers. (By the way – wooden hangers are the best for almost all types of clothing, because they won’t snag or damage your clothing like plastic and metal hangers.)
- When you need to put silk pieces in a drawer, place them on a pad and insert white tissue between the items or any folds. This helps to protect the material during storage.
38. Don’t be afraid to mix black and brown
Pair your black pants with a black jacket and a nice pair of brown boots --- are you breaking a fashion rule? No way. Black and brown can look quite nice together.
39. Tips on buying proper-fitting shoes
- Don’t assume you’re always the same size. Brand may vary in their sizing.
- Allow wriggle room for your toes, about a half-inch. For dress shoes you’ll be wearing 8-10 hours per day allow for enough room as your feet expand during the day.
- Try on both the right and left shoes. Your feet are not the same size (if you’re over the age of 25 you should know which foot is larger)
- Walk a few steps in a pair of shoes to feel if the heel fits properly. There should be minimal movement of your heel if any at all. Pay attention to any pinching or discomfort in the arch.
- Always wear your thickest regular pair of socks to try on shoes so you know how they will fit when you’re feet are the “largest.”
40. How to wear a vest with your suit
The three-piece suit brings a fresh, functional vibe to the classic business attire, but is it right for you? If you elect to add the vest, be sure it doesn’t dip below the belt buckle but hugs your torso. Pair it with a relatively subdued shirt and tie, and feel free to work it without the suit jacket.
41. How to iron pants
- Set up your ironing board and lay the pants flat with the zipper facing you on one side of the board.
- Iron the pockets first so you are not simply ironing more wrinkles into them when you iron the pants.
- Iron the waistband by pressing the iron on the pants. Do not slide the iron around, just press it down onto the fabric.
- Lay one pant leg flat length-wise on the ironing board and iron from top to bottom. Repeat for the other leg.
- Slide the pant leg over halfway and iron a crease (for dress pants only).
- Allow the pants to cool before wearing.
42. How to tailor your shirt sleeves to accommodate a watch
The cuff of your shirt should cover no more than half of the watch. You can have your cuffs tailored this way (based on the size of your typical watch) and adjust the placement of the watch on your wrist according to the size of the band or watch face.
43. When to tuck in your shirt
Your mom used to tell you to tuck in your shirt, right? Well there are some exceptions to that rule.
- Shorts with a flat hem at the bottom are intended to be worn untucked.
- Shirts that have tails (tapered or uneven hems) are meant to be tucked in.
- Polo shirts can be tucked but they have straight flat hems so they may also be untucked. Same with t-shirts, but usually you can wear your t-shirt untucked.
44. Stock up on plaid
There was a time when graphic tees and undershirts were common attire for casual wear. But those days are gone. Instead, stock up on a few plaid button-down shirts and sprinkle them in with your distressed, tapered jeans. You’ll look better.
45. Own a gray suit
Your first important decision is to choose a color and fabric type that is going to be versatile. Charcoal and gray are the two most versatile colors that will also pair well with most shoes and tie patterns without being too dark for the sunny seasons. Cotton is the most versatile fabric, although it is typically a little too light for winter months. If you don’t already own a gray suit, make it priority #1 in 2015!
46. Hair Style Trends for 2015
Stylists are urging their male customers to grow their hair out for 2015. Longer styles are in and will continue to be, according to grooming experts. Whether you want to grow your hair out all over or go short on the sides with well-styled length on top, more hair is better.
47. Friendly rules about wearing pinstripes
- Vertical stripes are more complimentary: they make you look taller and slimmer
- Thin stripes (less than an inch in width) are preferable because they’re more stylish
- Go with a pinstripe suit or pant for a classic look that never goes out of fashion. But don’t make a pinstripe suit your only suit. People are more likely to notice that you’re a “one-suit man.”
- Be careful when mixing stripes. You can wear pants and a shirt with pinstripes but be careful: ensure that the two pieces of clothing have stripes of a different width and that their colors are not similar.
48. How to pack for a one-week trip and still look good
First thing you do: pick a color to base your travel wardrobe around. It can be anything: brown, gray, navy, black, white or cream, etc. Make your slacks, jackets, and shoes this color and then build out from there. You only need 2-3 pairs of pants for a short visit like a week.
- Your shirts, hats and scarves should be complimentary to your chosen base color. This is a chance to add color, so brighten it up.
- Higher quality clothing handles the wear-and-tear of travel better than cheap clothing, so buy the best you can afford. Especially when it comes to shoes and pants.
- Take light clothing items and make sure they are easily cared for, you want to be comfortable and free from having to press or iron or wash (you may not have time).
- When you’re on the plane wear your heavier items, like your coat, so you don’t have to shove it in your luggage and risk wrinkles.
- Ensure that each item of clothing you pack can be worn with every other item so you’re versatile on the road. When stuck on whether to bring something, ask yourself if you really want to haul it across the world, if you can’t answer immediately “Yes.” Then leave it at home.
- Take a blazer, one nice shirt, and a tie: it can dress up anything and serve in most social situations.
- Bring walking shoes that are comfortable for exploring your area. Otherwise, maybe one other pair of comfortable shoes in your primary color, but no more. Shoes take up too much space.
49. Removing lint without a lint roller
If you have an item that is covered in lint, throw it in your dryer with a clean dryer sheet on “air-only” for 15 minutes. Voila! --- your clothes item will be lint free. (Don’t forget to empty the lint filter on your dryer).
50. Properly store your suits in your closet
If you have a special suit that doesn’t come out of your closet very often, there are a few things you can do to keep it looking fresh whenever you need it.
- Buy a dedicated suit hanger. It will be made of wood and have more bulk than your typical (albeit sturdy) hanger, and there will be a slight arch in the shoulder. This shape helps keep the shape of your suit jacket’s shoulders.
- Take care to keep your pants unrumpled. You can either hang your pants by the hems on felted clamp hangers, or you can master the Savile Row fold.
- If you really want a garment bag, choose one in canvas – a breathable cloth that’s good for both wool and cotton suits.
51. Four reasons wools socks make sense
- Wick moisture
- Provide good temperature control (less sweating)
- Excellent for layering in cold temperatures (use wool for the inner layer)
52. Rock a chambray tie
Chambray is a material that can be paired with a suit or denim, it’s very versatile. Grab yourself a chambray tie to perk up your basic suits. A black, blue, or gray chambray tie can really make your suit pop.
53. Storing your clothes long-term
There are some items, like wool clothes, heavy jackets, and summer clothes, that you may need to store for several months. Here are some tips for tucking them away while also preserving them:
- Clothes need to breathe so don’t leave them in dry cleaning wraps or sheathes Instead wrap them in a cotton sheet.
- Do not store clothes in a plastic box because air circulates poorly and the plastic can give the clothes an odor. Use a vented, unsealed cardboard box instead.
- Use acid-free tissue paper to avoid yellowing.
- Store the clothes in a cool, dry location. Avoid humid and/or damp places. Do not store the clothes where there will be a drastic change in temperature, such as attics or garages.
54. Extend the life of your finer clothes with proper storage
You've just purchased a fantastic suit. The tailoring is perfect. Or, you've just brought your freshly laundered items home from the dry cleaner. How do you keep these items in perfect condition at home? We answer that question on our blog.
55. 6 reasons to replace an item of clothing
- It’s damaged beyond repair (Think a huge tear or hole)
- It stinks
- There’s a stain that cannot be removed (Bleach, dye, ink, oil, and paint are especially tough to erase)
- It doesn’t fit
- The trend has passed
- You don’t ever wear it (Maybe you try it on, but you never wear it. If so, pass it on to someone else)
56. Wool vs. cotton suits: when to wear them
Cotton suits have a season, but you can and should wear your wool suits at any time of year. A wool suit is the staple of a man’s wardrobe. Reach for your cotton suit for more casual events in the warm months, but wear your trusty wool suit for everything else in any month.
57. Retire the white shoes after Labor Day
This applies to white dress shoes or loafers, not your sneaker collection. The only exception is if you are in fact, Mark Twain.
58. Use shoe trees to keep your shoes looking good
What the heck is a shoe tree? We wrote a blog post about that recently. Let’s sum it up by saying that a few good shoe trees will not only keep your shoes looking good, they’ll extend the life of your shoes too. Did you know leather shoes will shrink over time? Not if you keep them stretched properly with a shoe tree.
59. Whiskers should be well-groomed
Facial hair hasn’t been this popular since Ulysses S. Grant was fighting the Civil War. Keep that beard (goatees are less popular and won’t work as well on some faces) but make sure you maintain it with proper grooming. The “five-o-clock” shadow is also still a good look but don’t let it happen by accident, groom the stubble for a masculine look. Here’s a guide to grooming your facial hair from Grooming Lounge.
60. Care for fur items
If you have fur items, it can be hard to find easy storage options simply because of the bulk. There are some easy ways to prevent problems with fur, though.
- Keep it in a dark area. The light from the sun can damage the material, especially if temperatures change often in your region.
- You'll also want to keep the temperatures in the storage area cool. Avoid placing these items in warm or hot areas, such as an attic – high temperatures can cause shrinkage.
- For long-term storage, seek out professional cold storage. This is the best option if you are storing a fur for months or years.
61. Keep the briefcase alive
We don’t carry a briefcase because everyone else does (they don’t yet), and we don’t carry a briefcase because we’re taking work with us everywhere we go. We carry a briefcase because it’s undeniably masculine. Get a sturdy leather briefcase, it’ll outlive you. Here’s what to look for:
- Choose a briefcase that has a lock so you can secure your valuables.
- Go with black or brown and you can’t go wrong.
- Have your initials inscribed on the briefcase to give it your own personal touch.
- A saddle bag or messenger bag is acceptable but make it leather and make sure you can adjust the straps depending on your outfit and what you’re carrying.
62. How to choose a sock color
- Match the color of your pants or go one shade darker. The effect will be to extend your leg and make you seem taller.
- Generally, wear dark brown/gray/blue socks with khaki pants; wear black socks only with black or dark gray pants; wear dark gray/blue/brown socks with navy or denim pants.
- Choose patterns to complement your pants or be bold and match one or more colors in your patterned socks to your tie/pocket square/shirt/scarf.
- Do not match your socks exactly to another part of your wardrobe or it can look like you’re trying too hard.
- Do not match your socks to your shoe color or it will make you look like you’re wearing a bizarre pair of boots.
63. How to store leather and suede items
From your most stylish shoes to that collector-worthy jacket, leather and suede items require a bit of dedication from you for proper storage.
- Keep pieces in a well-ventilated area.
- Keep them covered with white muslin or other kinds of breathable fabric to reduce exposure to sunlight.
- You also want to keep the temperature cool. Storing leather and suede in a warm area can damage the material.
- If you have high quality, supple leather, store it flat on a shelf. Place pieces of tissue paper between any layers of items to keep any type of debris (dust and dirt in particular) from affecting the material.
64. Lighten up by wearing a linen suit in the summer months
A linen suit can keep you looking cool and professional during the warmer months in summer. Check out our article on wearing a linen suit to keep cool.
65. Don’t wear clip-on ties
Traditionally, there are a few reasons that men wear clip-on ties: (1) when they don’t know how to tie a knot, (2) when they have trouble making the length of their tie consistently the same, and (3) when they’re lazy. However, if you’re concerned about fashion, the answer to those concerns is not the clip-on tie. The answer is: learn to tie a knot and properly adjust tie length, and don’t be lazy. Come on, there are only a few small things we can do as men that can go a long way to looking good, and this is one of them. Put a knot around that collar, fellas. Now, if you have some sensitivity issues with your neck, you get a pass. But otherwise, ditch the clip-on tie. You’re not D.B. Cooper.
66. Introduce an outdoorsy feel with a tweed jacket
Come fall and winter, tweed is a great choice for a suit jacket because of its extra warmth and outdoorsy look. Wear it over a shirt or a sweater or both for extra layering. Match your tweed jacket with shoes or boots that are rugged and sturdy for the harsher months. Play up your outdoorsy side.
67. How to wear a bow tie and a pocket square
For you bowtie aficionados, follow the same basic principles as with a regular tie: don’t necessarily match the colors of your pocket square to the tie, just complement them. If you have a blue checked tie, choose a pocket square with white and blue, but you can go with a pattern or print. Or go solid, that’s never a bad choice. With a bow tie get bold --- choose a tie with some depth to it and accent it with a pocket square that has stripes or a floral pattern. Experiment, be adventurous. Make a statement --- and don’t forget to get bold with the shirt too.
68. How to care for suede
A suede jacket or suede shoes can really add to your wardrobe, but suede is a challenge to keep clean. Here’s a quick guide to cleaning suede:
- If you get dirt or mud on the suede, let it dry and then brush it off using a nail brush.
- Use a clean, damp cloth to get more difficult dirt and mud.
- Apply a spray to waterproof the suede from water and stains.
- Have a “suede eraser” on hand for when you get a stain.
- To restore some of the luster of the suede, hold your shoes over steam (pot of water or a steamer) and lightly brush.
69. The correct way to tie a scarf
There are four basic ways to tie a scarf:
- Parisian Knot
- Once-Around Knot
- Loose Once-Around Knot
- Twice-Around Knot
70. How to roll up your sleeves
Want to get ahead? What have we been taught about that? To roll up our sleeves, of course. But how? Here's how:
- Put on your shirt
- Make sure the sleeves are fully extended and even
- Flip the bottom of the sleeve over so the reverse of the sleeve is showing and lined up with the width of the cuff
- Repeat until the sleeve is rolled up to just below your elbow
- Do NOT show your elbows when rolling up a dress shirt. In fact, only roll up the sleeve of a dress shirt for these three reasons: (1) it's extremely warm (2) you're digging a hole, or (3) you're Popeye
- Special Note: always roll up your sleeves evenly when in a social situation
71. When to wear an undershirt
There are two basic types of undershirts we’re concerned with: the crewneck and the v-neck. When to wear an undershirt and which type?
- When you want the undershirt to be “unseen” (not visible through your dress shirt) choose a crewneck.
- However if you are wearing your dress shirt open-collar and do not want the undershirt shown, choose a v-neck.
- In some cases it may be stylish to show the v-neck beneath your dress shirt, but not often.
- A crewneck is better under a dress shirt and sweater.
- A v-neck is generally cooler and is a better option for warm months.
72. Choosing a pair of dress shoes
We don’t have room to discuss every type of men’s dress shoe, but here’s a quick guide to the most common styles:
- The Oxford: Popular and timeless, the Oxford can be worn both with casual or formal attire.
- The Derby: Also known as the Blucher, is very similar to the Oxford but the facing is stitched on top of the vamp (the reverse of the Oxford). The Derby fits wider than The Oxford and is less formal.
- The Loafer: Originally a casual shoe, the Loafer can also be worn with suits. It often is adorned with a buckle tassels, or decorative leather.
- The Monk Strap: Featuring a strap instead of laces, this shoe is versatile and adds flair.
- The Dress Boot: The boot version of the Oxford.
- The Chelsea Boot: No laces, easy to slip on, and usually has minimal decoration of any at all.
- The Chukka Boot: Distinguished by the round toe and only 2-3 laces, the Chukka has become very popular in recent years. Appropriate for casual or more formal attire.
73. The 6 ways to wear a sweater
Here’s a guide to the styles of sweaters and how they may best be worn and paired with other items.
- Crew Neck Sweater: Pair it with almost anything underneath (button-down collar, turtleneck, tee-shirt), but it reveals less of what’s underneath than the other sweater styles.
- V-Neck Sweater: The low-cut “v” neckline allows you to wear a button-down collared short with or without a tie and reveal more of the layer underneath. The v-neck creates the illusion of a leaner profile and it draws attention to the face. If you wear a tee-shirt underneath, make sure the tee’s collar line doesn’t slip beneath the “v”.
- Turtleneck sweater: Perfect for creating a slimmer, taller look, the turtleneck sweater should usually be black or dark brown to be most effective. Can be worn with jeans or a suit, with or without a jacket.
- Cardigan: Wear your cardigan over a dress shirt or even match it with your suit. Very convenient because you can remove them or put them on easily of course.
- Aran or Cable- Knit Sweater: Not just for the sailboat, the Aran sweater is best worn loose and comfortable over other layers. You can reveal a collar to add a contrasting color, especially denim.
- Sweater Vest: The key here is to match the sweater vest with your pants or jacket. The sweater vest can give a slim man a more athletic look, accentuating the torso and arms. Wear it over a shirt and tie and throw on a suit coat or sport coat over it.