Fall Winter 2026
What I would put you in this winter
This is the fall book. It is not a catalogue, and there is nothing here to order off a page.
It is closer to a set of arguments about what to wear this winter, made in cloth. I have pulled the looks worth your time out of a much longer book. What follows is what I would actually put a client in this season, in this city, for the rooms you are actually in.
Brown
The story of the season, and the piece most clients are missing.
Flannel
The odd trouser is back, so a sport coat wardrobe works again.
The cloth
All of it stocked rather than special order. Better pricing, quicker delivery, and nothing here past $1,675, jacket and trouser. It also means it is finite. A seasonal cloth is not rewoven when it runs out.
The date
Six to seven weeks from the day we cut. For a garment in hand before the holidays, the order needs placing in the first half of September.
These are stock cloths, so they sit at the accessible end of the range. Cloth from the flagship mills and merchants starts at $1,195 and most commissions land between $1,295 and $1,995. Nothing in this book runs past $1,675 for a jacket and trouser.
01
The Neutral
Brown is doing the work navy used to
Navy is not going anywhere. But the browns this season are deep enough and varied enough to carry a wardrobe on their own, and in Washington they solve a problem navy does not. Brown reads softer in a room without reading casual. If you own two navy suits and a grey one, this is the third garment.
- Brown textured solid100% wool
- Brown herringbone tweedwool, cashmere
- Tan tweedwool, silk, nylon
- Tan glen plaid100% wool
- Brown corduroycotton
02
The Trouser
Flannel is back, and it brings the sport coat with it
Five flannels this season, all pure wool at 270 grams except the cream. A sport coat is only useful if you have something to wear it with, and for fifteen years the answer was a grey worsted trouser that never quite looked right next to it. Buy the pearl grey first.
- Pearl grey flannel100% wool
- Taupe flannel100% wool
- Brown flannel100% wool
- Navy flannel100% wool
- Cream flannelwool, stretch
03
The Pattern
Glen plaid, at a scale you can actually see
Six glen plaids and checks, most between 320 and 350 grams. Five of them are shown here. The black and white at 350 is the boldest cloth in the book. It is not a first suit. It is a fourth or fifth suit, for a man who has somewhere to wear it.
- Black and white glen plaid100% wool
- Navy glen plaid100% wool
- Navy and grey glen plaidwool, silk
- Grey and burgundy glen plaidwool, silk
- Cream, grey and brown glen plaidwool, silk
04
The Hand
Texture instead of shine
The last fifteen years of suiting ran toward finer worsteds with more surface sheen. This season runs the other way. Almost everything sits between 240 and 350 grams, with a hand you can read from across a room.
- Teal and tan plaidalpaca, wool, silk
- Ecru and tan plaidalpaca, wool, silk
- Tan textured solid100% wool
- Rust tonal windowpanewool, silk
- Blue tweedwool, silk, nylon
05
The New Piece
The overshirt, cut properly
A shirt jacket, cut from your own pattern, in the same cloths as the sport coats. This is the honest answer to an office that stopped wearing jackets. It is not a quarter zip and it is not a blazer pretending to be casual.
- Brown tweedwool, silk, nylon
- Blue tweedwool, silk, nylon
- Tan tweedwool, silk, nylon
- Burgundy herringbonewool, cashmere
- Brown herringbone tweedwool, cashmere
06
The Colour
Past navy and grey
Burgundy at 270 grams, made as a dinner jacket with black peak lapels. If you have worn black tie four times and want the fifth one to be yours, that is the cloth. Also purple, dark green, rust, and two plaids that make sport coats and nothing else.
- Burgundy textured solid100% wool
- Purple textured solid100% wool
- Dark green herringbonewool, cashmere
- Orange and navy plaidwool, silk, linen
- Rust tonal windowpanewool, silk
Cloth is decided in your hands, not on a page.
Colour shifts under showroom light, and weight and hand do not photograph at all. An hour with the books, in the light you actually dress in, will tell you more than this whole page.